WHY DECORATORS ARE TURNING TO THE ARCH METHOD

For specialist garment decorators in the printing industry, ensuring high-quality results – while avoiding garment scorching – is a critical concern. Scorch marks can compromise the integrity of prints, leading 
to wasted materials and dissatisfied clients. However, by refining the heat-press process and adopting a systematic approach, superior results can be maintained. 

Scorching occurs when fabric is exposed to excessive heat, resulting in visible discolouration or shiny patches. This issue is particularly prevalent in premium outerwear, where synthetic materials react differently under heat, compared to standard cotton garments. The primary causes include excessive temperature, high pressure and direct platen contact. To combat these issues, garment decorators can implement the ARCH method. This method provides accurate pressure, reduced temperature transfers, cover sheet usage and heated lower platens.

Applying excessive pressure can damage fabric fibres and lead to scorching, regardless of material type. Many decorators mistakenly believe that a higher pressure ensures better adhesion. However, most heat transfers perform optimally at medium pressure. To avoid scorching, a digital read-out can be used to confirm pressure settings. A range of 4–6 needs to be maintained on clam presses. On air-powered machines, the range should be 40–60psi. Pressure levels need to be adjusted according to fabric type, to prevent fibre breakage.

Heat-sensitive materials require careful temperature management to prevent damage. Since different fabrics react uniquely to heat, identifying the optimal transfer temperature is crucial. Standard synthetic blends may begin to scorch at 130–160°C. Consider using water-based transfers, which fuse effectively at lower temperatures, such as 120°C. In addition, testing at lower temperatures will enable the balance between adhesion and garment integrity.

“To combat these issues, garment decorators can implement the ARCH method”

Using a cover sheet acts as a barrier between the heat platen and the fabric, reducing direct heat exposure and potential scorching. Begin with a standard heat-proof transfer release paper. If additional protection is needed, upgrade to a Grip Flex or Teflon-based cover sheet. Adjust temperature settings accordingly, as thicker sheets may retain heat and reduce platen effectiveness by 5–15°C. Finally, monitor pressure adjustments, when using thicker sheets, to ensure proper transfer adhesion.

“A cover sheet acts as a barrier between the heat platen and the fabric”

For decorators handling premium, heat-sensitive fabrics, heated lower platens offer an effective solution. Unlike traditional presses that apply heat from the top platen, lower-heated platens distribute heat from underneath. This reduces top platen temperature requirements.

Set the upper platen at approximately 110°C, while maintaining a lower platen temperature of 120°C or higher. This approach ensures a more even heat distribution and minimises visible scorching. For additional protection, combine heated lower platens with the appropriate cover sheet.

To ensure long-lasting results, allow at least 24 hours before washing the garment to ensure proper transfer curing. Use premium-quality transfers that complement the durability and aesthetics of high-end jackets.

“By adopting the ARCH method, garment decorators can confidently produce high-quality prints”

“Pressure levels need to be adjusted according to fabric type, to prevent fibre breakage”

By adopting the ARCH method, garment decorators can confidently produce high-quality prints on premium jackets, while reducing defects. Utilising lower-heated platens, water-based transfers and effective heat-control strategies, enables efficient and reliable customisation. With proper technique and material selection, heat-pressed jackets can achieve exceptional durability and vibrant, professional finishes.